Formerly made up of seven islands, Mumbai today is a buzzing metropolis that seems to be growing upwards to match the country’s ambitions. It may be the financial capital of India, but really Bollywood is its biggest export and greatest draw. It’s a city that is constantly reinventing itself, bit by bit. You will find a resurgent Kala Ghoda today, a new side to Byculla tomorrow, and Bandra—there’s a new restaurant or snack bar opening practically every weekend. How do you pack in everything in a trip? Here’s a guide
Your best option is to start from south Mumbai and make your way north, visiting British-era museums, local tourist spots and places of worship along the way. The Gateway of India, built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary to India, is an imposing sight, and sits across from the popular Taj Mahal Palace and Tower, Mumbai. (Aside: If you’re planning a getaway to Alibag’s resorts, you will have to hop onto a ferry from the jetty here.)
Then head over to Kala Ghoda, where you’ll find a range of eateries, art galleries and shops that have made this one of the nicest areas in the city to stroll through. Start with an ice espresso with heavy cream at Kala Ghoda Café, before venturing to check out the shows on display at Delhi Art Gallery’s three-floor Mumbai space or within the Art Deco Jehangir Art Gallery. Also in the area is Max Mueller Bhavan, and the National Gallery of Modern Art, which has played host to shows by Picasso and Amrita Sher-Gil among others.
A short walk away is the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (formerly, Prince of Wales Museum), which has an impressive art collection, particularly at the Jehangir Nicholson gallery. A visit to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the stunning stone structure is definitely recommended, especially to see the train station in use, with light streaming through its stained glass windows, as the Central and Harbour lines disgorge waves of humanity like clockwork. For those that want to learn more about the history of the building, and the railways, make sure to book a guided tour of the terminus.
Further north, towards the area now christened midtown, there’s the Haji Ali Dargah, which sits in the middle of the Arabian Sea, and is connected to the mainland by a narrow walkway that disappears during high tide. Dhobi Ghat, and Dharavi are two places that are popular with international tourists, and may be worth a detour. Culture lovers should visit the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum, a museum with spectacular interiors that gives you a peek into the history of Bombay. En route to Bandra, stop off and pay your respects at Siddhivinayak Temple, which is a Mumbai institution. Once at Bandra, don’t forget to take a walk on Carter Road, which overlooks the sea, and explore the urban villages that still dot the area. Walk along the lanes of Ranwar while keeping your eyes peeled for rickshaws and motorcycles that careen through the narrow roads. Also on Carter Road is Mannat, Shah Rukh Khan’s house, where the tall gate and high walls do little to stop selfie-seeking fans. In Juhu, Jalsa is where Amitabh Bachchan lives with his equally famous family, and though you can’t look inside, for the Bollywood obsessed, it’s a pilgrimage spot.
There’s nothing that’s not available in Mumbai. From street food to fusion to molecular gastronomy, this is where it all happens. Here’s where to eat: Bombay Canteen, Lower Parel: Putting a twist on food from around the country, in less than two years, Bombay Canteen has managed to change perceptions of Indian food, without resorting to gimmicks like molecular gastronomy. An ever-evolving menu showcases regional cuisine and inventive fusion fare. Thepla tacos, anyone?
Clubbing is still a big part of the city’s weekend culture, but a host of affordable bars means more people are willing to spend the night drinking with friends. The number of Social outlets in the city seems to grow every day, but for our money Khar Social, which hosts gigs in its basement is probably the one to make a beeline for. If you’re looking for live music, Bonobo, in Bandra programs an eclectic cross-section of the country’s indie music scene.
If you have the means, plan an evening at Aer, the rooftop lounge at the Four Seasons, where mixologist Ashish Sharma puts together a host of inventive cocktails using local ingredients. Dome, another rooftop bar, this time on the InterContinental Hotel, looks out over Marine Drive, and a sundowner here is truly spectacular, as you can see the sun set into the Arabian Sea.
If you’re looking to catch up with friends over drinks, or spend an evening with well made cocktails and that I-never-want-to-leave vibe, Woodside Inn, Doolally Taproom and Lower Parel’s Café Zoe are some of your best bets.
We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the craft beer revolution sweeping the city, and the microbreweries that now dot Andheri. Brewbot and Independence Brewing Company both offer a rotating selection of craft beers made inhouse (as does the aforementioned Doolally).
The city’s swish set can be found at Olive in Bandra, virtually all nights of the week, and you should make your way there, to sample The Olive, their signature cocktail. Or then party with chef Kelvin Cheung, who’s friends with Sonam Kapoor and a range of A-listers, his Bandra bar, The Drunken Clam (before that, line the stomach at Bastian, a floor below, for a meal whipped up by him and Boo Kwang Kim).
For those looking to go clubbing, the most popular spot is Trilogy, at Juhu’s Sea Princess hotel. Spread across two levels, the nightclub has played host to a range of celebrity DJs and offers VIP tables, where you might just spot a Bollywood celebrity or two. In town, make your way to Tryst, which is kitted out with a great sound system and plays a healthy mix of popular EDM and Bollywood hits.
Colaba and Fort are where the international tourists tend to stay, though new luxury brands are opening around Lower Parel and midtown. When it comes to hotels in Mumbai, there are options all over the city.
Strolling along Colaba Causeway, you’re bound to find something to take back home. From supple shawls to a range of sunglasses, vintage compasses and, of course, junk jewellery, the hawkers that crowd the footpath have it all. Colourful juttis, wood and soapstone figurines, and basic leather goods, there’s something for everyone. On Bandra’s Linking Road too, you’ll find hawkers of every stripe with an array of options.
For the design inclined, a visit to Filter, tucked away in Kala Ghoda is a must. Selling everything from chocolates to magazines and notebooks, the store features a well-curated mix of eclectic items that you didn’t know you needed. Nearby, Nicobar has a range of clothing, and housewares that skilfully brings together India’s maximalist tendencies with design blog minimalism.
Also worth visiting is Kulture Shop, in Bandra, which stocks posters, mugs and more from India’s leading graphic artists.
When it comes to a one-stop shop, Lower Parel’s Palladium has everything from Zara to Muji for a day of shopping that will please the label obsessed. Another place to check out (though save your trip for when it’s not too hot) is Chor Bazaar, where secondhand cameras, records, antiques, furniture and lights are all up for grabs. You’ll also find furniture-making workshops where you can get a replica Raj-era furniture made.
There’s a Mumbai for every interest, so you can explore the city on your terms. For architecture and design lovers, a walk around the Oval Maidan presents Indo-Saracenic style Bombay High Court and Rajabai Tower on one side, and the low-slung Art Deco buildings on the other. From there walk past the imposing colonial buildings and buy a ticket for Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus’ Railway Museum and stroll into the grand station’s administrative section, where you can marvel at the cavernous dome that echoes with every footstep. All-encompassing heritage tours can be booked from Raconteur Heritage Walks, who guide you through the historic district.
Culture vultures should check local papers and catch a show at the NCPA’s Experimental Theatre, a lively black box that hosts young talent, or at Prithvi Theatre in Juhu, where the intimate performance space demands your full attention. Each has a café on the premises, for those that want to sit around and soak in the atmosphere.
Those on the trail of the Mumbai hipster must go to Mahalaxmi’s Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters, where circular windows allow you to see the action in the roastary. Try their single-origin coffees and pair it with a Magazine Street Kitchen croissant or Le 15 cupcake. Then catch a movie at Matterden at The Deepak, a refurbished single-screen theatre that shows a range of art house and foreign language films, in addition to populist fare. Also worth visiting is The Revolver Club, in Mahim, for vinyl that includes new artistes and pre-owned favourites. If you’re looking to end your night with something unusual, take a night-cycling tour of the city, which is organised by Reality Tours, to see the city when it’s not as crowded. It starts at Kala Ghoda and ends at Worli Fort.
|Mumbai, Maharashtra 400099||BOM|